Have yourself a Merry Ethical Christmas!

A partridge in a pear tree...these cards are printed on paper from sustainable forests by Campaign to Protect Rural England, and come in a pack of 8.

2 turtle doves...this dove brooch is made from sterling silver by Tearcraft.

3 French hens...also by Tearcraft these chicken egg cosies are made from cotton with appliquéd wings.

4 calling birds...this owl from Ethical Superstore is one of a range of endangered species which have to be put together by you from the FSC certified wooden pieces.

5 gold rings…there are many more than 5 gold rings we could mention but Cred’s Hibiscus Filigree ring is one of our current favorites.

6 geese a laying…these Divine chocolate mini eggs are made from Fair Trade ingredients.

7 swans a swimming…using this book, available from Ethical Superstore, you will be able to swim, canoe and boat around the most beautiful parts of the UK.

8 maids a milking…milk, honey, aloe and sunflower oil combine in this luxurious recipe of Burt’s Bees body lotion.

9 ladies dancing…People Tree have an amazing range of beautiful and stylish ladies clothing perfect for going out dancing.

10 Lords a leaping…this Lord MO t-shirt is one of many from SP:UK. This particular one is made from Fair Trade cotton.

11 pipers piping…this colourful necklace, sold through Ethical Superstore is made from Fair Trade resin and brass pipes.

12 drummers drumming…this Djembe drum is hand-made from Fair Trade goatskin for Natural Flow Direct.com

That's all for now....



The price of going ethical

Whenever you tell anyone that you are an ethical jeweller the question most people ask is “how much more money does it cost?” It appears that the world view of ethical and environmental products is that they cost more money. So is this true for ethical jewellery or can we produce our jewellery for a price relative to non-ethical jewellery?

The city view Fair Trade and ethical products in a purely financial way and this should be the way that we also aim to work. Products should be sourced responsibly but in a cost effective way. Mass production is cheaper than bespoke one-off products so it is important to find where and how mass production techniques can be undertaken at a reasonable price and within the a way that fits our ethos.

That is not to say that ethical jewellery cannot be bespoke but the mark-up price will have to be significant to cover other extra costs.

During our time using ethically sourced materials Opulent Ethics has always paid the same price for recycled silver as for non-recycled silver. We source our recycled silver from Cred who base their price on the daily Cookson pricing of silver.

Fair Trade gold is not the same. On average Fair Trade gold is 10% above the gold spot price whereas ecologically mined Fair Trade gold is 15% above the daily gold spot price. Currently, this means that buyers are paying an extra £4 for their Fair Trade gold per gram.

It must be remembered, though, that this additional money is going to do good. It supports the small-scale mines and communities which mine the materials. Some of the money goes towards improving infrastructure, education and health facilities ensuring that the lives of the people who work and live near the mines are improved.

It is possible that some money may go to middle men. So if you want to reduce costs you should ensure that you obtain your products, where possible, direct from the source or from responsible, reputable suppliers.

David Hargreaves, from Fair Trade Gemstones said during the Great Debate at International Jewellery London (IJL) this summer that the future aim for ethical jewellery is to have 5% of the jewellery market in 15 years producing and using 5 tonnes of fair trade gold per year. This is still a long way off but is definitely a reachable goal.

Small designers may not be able to afford to be 100% ethical yet so it is important to ensure that costs of ethical materials become manageable and in relation to non-ethical materials and the hope is that, over time, costs will be reduced and may even become equal.

It is, therefore, important that small designer makers like Opulent Ethics continue to pledge our support for ethical jewellery by working with the materials we can afford and by promoting ethical jewellery to our contacts and customers. Then, hopefully one day soon the costs of ethical jewellery can become more manageable.

That’s all for now….  

Keeping ethics in the spotlight and increasing participation

The old adage that “All publicity is good publicity” is not always true especially with a subject as volatile and far reaching as Fair Trade, ethics and green issues. Everyone has an opinion ranging from the denial of global warming at one end of the scale to ethical fantasists at the other.

Within the fashion industry principles of sustainability and ethical standards are already rife and constantly growing, improving and becoming more accepted. So how do we bring the jewellery industry in line with our fashion counterparts? How do we keep pushing developments? And, for those of us who are already ethical in our work, how do we disclose this without sounding like we are patronising others for not being so?

Fashion and jewellery have developed side by side over many generations. The two have overlapped regularly never more so than when fashion jewellery emerged. This recent arm of the jewellery industry works in the same way as the fashion industry with styles, colours, shapes and designs changing on a seasonal basis. The Fine Jewellery sector of the market also follows this but at a less rapid speed.

The most necessary factor in shifting the jewellery industry towards being more ethical is a genuine interest in the issues concerned by those trying to change. Opulent Ethics believes that Companies who become ethical for the sole intention of attracting more customers are almost as bad as those who ignore the issues altogether.

There are always stories about the plight of the environment and the peoples involved in the jewellery industry supply chain. In recent years we have seen the spotlight focusing on the Blood Diamond film, the Marange Diamond Fields in Zimbabwe, Naomi Campbell’s involvement in the Blood Diamond trial of the ex-Liberian leader Charles Taylor, the campaign to save Alaska’s Bristol Bay from being mined…the list goes on and on.    

The story behind the Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF), a non-profit organisation, also rings true for the jewellery industry. The EFF started with a group of individuals and small companies who were concerned about the impact their business-actions had on others. From initial meetings came the idea to share and disseminate relevant information, to share supplier and manufacturer information and to help spread the word about what they were doing and why to the larger fashion community.

Today the EFF has over 3000 members in 73 countries all networking, sharing new developments and information and taking part in the numerous events and shows arranged by the forum. The EFF is also as successful as it is due to its collaborations with big names in the fashion world which attracts the attention of students and new designers as well as the world’s media.

There are already inklings of similar organisations within the ethical jewellery industry with the start of the Fair Jewellery Action website which has the on-going intention of combining the knowledge and experience of established ethical jewellers including Greg Valerio, Marc Choyt, Cred Jewellery and Ute Decker. Each of these founder members has far reaching contacts which should be encouraged to join the revolution and then, hopefully, an Ethical Jewellery Forum may begin.

Developments within jewellery are happening constantly but consistent consumer pressure may be what the industry needs to really make big steps toward change. A large percentage of the jewellery industry population don’t know or care about ethical issues but as bigger names are catching on and becoming involved this will change. There is so much family history within the industry with many companies set in their ways and following their heritage rather than forward thinking developments. This is going to be a challenge to change.

There are numerous companies which already produce jewellery in an ethical or sustainable way. Some choose to overtly publicise their ethical intentions (Oria, Leblas, Cred, Fifi Bijoux, Avasarah) whilst other make changes quietly without pushing their choices at their consumers (Ute Decker, Bario-Neal, Daisy Knights, Saretta).  

Opulent Ethics is unsure about which of these works best but knows that both are as important as the other and that we need more companies like this to keep making changes. And whichever way a designer decides to go, transparency has got to be the key. At this early stage of setting up ethics as a serious sector of the jewellery industry it is important for designers to be realistic in what they can achieve and practice what they say in order to ensure that ethics does not keep coming to the fore in a negative light.

Overall, the best thing that anyone can do is share their findings, suppliers and experiences either through their products and advertising or by becoming members of groups or wiki-sites such as the Fair Jewellery Action website. Also, be prepared to talk to those who ask about a piece of ethical jewellery being worn and the reasons for wearing it. You may find that you end up having the same conversation again and again but, yes another antonym is being used, baby steps are a good start point.

That’s it for now….

What is ethical jewellery and can it ever be 100% ethical?

You may have heard people say that to be truly ethical would mean not producing or wearing jewellery. Jewellery has adorned the body for millennia indicating social status, wealth or for beauty and this is not about to change now. Here at Opulent Ethics we are of the opinion that jewellery is staying put and the best thing we can do is to change consumer opinion so that those who purchase jewellery begin questioning where their products come from.

To be 100% ethical is very difficult and may even be near impossible at this time so the best piece of advice we here at Opulent Ethics can give is to choose your battles wisely. With our jewellery we began by sourcing UK recycled silver from a responsible source, Cred, whilst trying to keep our carbon footprint as small as possible by using UK gem stones. By using Western sources for metals and gems stones you are able to ensure they are fairly mined.

The ethical jewellery produced by Opulent Ethics uses materials which are obtained from sources that impact as little as possible on the environment and local communities. Examples of our ethical choices include ensuring gems are not from countries where money from their sale funds war or conflict and silver is acquired from a company which recycles industry and left over jewellery silver. In the future, where Opulent Ethics decides to use gold this will be Fair Trade and acquired from family run small-scale mines which use alluvial mining techniques such as panning rather than large open pit mines which obtain their gold using chemical techniques. For information on the impact of mining see the No Dirty Gold website.

Sustainable materials such as wool, woods or seeds are another possibility. Opulent Ethics are hoping to be working with vegetable ivory this year and will keep you up to date on all we find out.

It has become evident recently that artisanal techniques such as filigree are making a comeback in jewellery. Craftsmanship is now very important in design and consumers want to see evidence of these hand skills in their purchases. This is a positive for ethical jewellers such as Leblas who have been trying to resurrect traditional Spanish filigree skills in recent years.

Leblas’ De Blas Tanzanite Ring

Leblas’ collections are produced by filigree artisans in Spanish workshops whose skills have been passed down through centuries of perfected craftsmanship. They also ensure that their pieces are produced using sustainable practices, using materials and running their business in a socially, environmentally and culturally responsible way.

Overall, ethical jewellery should be based on fair trade principles. By this we mean that all involved in the supply chain should be paid a fair wage and they and their environment should not be exploited. You can go as far as ensuring that chemicals used in your studio are less harmful and are disposed of responsibly.

Here at Opulent Ethics we have made our choices as to how we can be as ethical as possible within the limits of today’s jewellery trade. Sadly, these limits mean that it is currently not always possible for our jewellery to be 100% ethical but we are constantly working towards moving nearer to this goal and we hope that one day soon it will be possible. Because of this we feel that transparency is very important as we do not want to mislead our consumers. We are open and honest about all the materials and techniques we have used whilst producing and manufacturing our products and we hope that this gives possible consumers the confidence they need to believe in our products.

That’s all for now….